Monadh Mòr – Mòr than just a backcountry backup by Andy Emery

With a midweek drive-by assessment of snow-filled Tom, Dick and Harry gullies above Glen Feshie, a group of excited humans and a dog assembled at Auchlean car park early one Saturday morning. But as soon as we began walking up the ridge next above Allt Fhearnagan, it became clear that the gullies were bare. We needed a backup plan…

As soon as we booted up to the timid, retreating snow line, then over the plateau-guarding shoulder of Càrn Bàn Mòr, the whole snowfield was revealed to us, along with a long list of excoriating options gleaming in the early spring sun in every direction ahead of us. Our eyes rested longingly on the reclining barrel of resplendent, rockless, and snow-softened slopes of Monadh Mòr, right in front of us. The plan was settled without recourse to intensive discussion; telepathically we had all agreed from first sight.

From the crest of the path just south of the summit of Càrn Bàn Mòr, at OS NN892968, we opted for the flattest transit across the plateau towards our destination. The keen and time-endowed could fit in a transition from the summit of Càrn Bàn Mòr and get a small, gentle pitch in an east-southeasterly direction, following the stream bed of Allt Sgairnich. Comprising skis, splitboards and paws, however, we decided the simplest option would be to keep skins on and take a slightly sinuous route across the plateau, following the line of the path southeastwards towards point 957 on Mòine Mòr, then east-northeastwards above the steeper valley sides of Allt Sgiarnich, turning back to southeastwards to hit the bealach of point 876, flanking the northern slope of Tom Dubh, before the final ascent of Monadh Mòr via the streambed running southeasterly and a gentle skin up the slope to the summit, excitement growing with elevation at the incredible spring snow beneath our feet.

The vantage of Monadh Mòr reveals a panorama stretching all the way to the West Coast ranges and Creag Meagaidh, whose Window is obvious in the skyline. The best part of the view, however, is certainly the tangent over the end of the Lairig Ghru, eyes following the precipitous spur of the Devil’s Point, and out to the lower slopes of the Forest of Mar, with Lochnagar’s rocky ridges puncturing the gentle horizon in the distance.

After a wind-blasted summit snack, we transitioned and dropped westward, retracing our skin track on prime corn snow, whooping, hollering and barking with joy. Snowboarders here would be wise to punch the last bit of the slope to carry enough speed through a flat patch east of point 947, before dropping back down north-northwestwards to Allt Luineag. We opted for a fast-and-light victory lap down from point 947 again, but there are plenty of other options from the bealach of Allt Luineag. Back up to Monadh Mòr, or the super fit could sneak an extension out to Beinn Bhrotain, 2 km to the southeast of Monadh Mòr. Above us at Allt Luineag, the south-facing slopes of Carn na Criche and Sgor an Lochain Uaine, with its mellow bowls and subtle corries, looked very appealing; using poor Molly dog’s old age as a cover for our own lack of fitness, however, we vowed to return to shred those slopes another day.

Retracing our steps, thankfully aided by the savage wind, we regained the path and back to the broad shoulder of Càrn Bàn Mòr. We decided to get one last pitch in down to the snow line, following the top of Tom to where the snow ran out. From here, we transitioned in a wind that ripped off the plateau and accelerated towards us, numb fingers and a volley of swearwords gathered up and transported northwards to be deposited onto poor innocent ears in Aviemore, no doubt. All that remained was the ski carry back to the cars.

The total tour distance was around 26 km. The plateau was mellow the entire way, and we were never exposed to any avalanche risk. Navigation may have been slightly tricky had the weather not been perfect, but there are plenty of topographic features to catch you should you need the map and compass. This tour makes an excellent, long, but not arduous, stunning trek for those less experienced wanting to build their fitness and push their backcountry skills. That said, this section of the plateau is very remote, reached from a long, dead-end single track road and a long trek in, so that should be taken into account by team members when discussing the day. I thoroughly recommend it though, for those wanting a big, easy day as an alternative to the classic and well-travelled Ben Macdui mission.

Andy Emery

April 2022